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How this northern Ontario church puts reconciliation on display

On Manitoulin Island, a church combines Catholic and Indigenous traditions to create a service unlike any I’ve seen
Written by Steve Paikin
There is Catholic and Indigenous iconography throughout the Church of the Immaculate Conception in M’Chigeeng on Manitoulin Island. (Steve Paikin)

I have seen the Catholic mass performed at the Vatican as well as in churches across Europe and Canada. But I have never seen another mass performed the way they do it at the Church of the Immaculate Conception in M’Chigeeng, on Manitoulin Island.

M'Chigeeng, a community of 2,600 people (including nearly 1,000 on-reserve) on the north channel of Lake Huron, was once known as West Bay. But in 1974 it was renamed with an Ojibway word meaning “village enclosed by stepped cliffs” (the picturesque Cup and Saucer Trail is nearby).

The Indigenous presence on the world’s largest freshwater island dates back thousands of years, and relations between First Nations and the European settlers have not always been harmonious since the Jesuits arrived 150 years ago. But what’s happening at the local church is enough to make you believe in the possibilities of reconciliation.

There is both a cross and an Indigenous dream-catcher inside this church. (Steve Paikin)

Every Sunday, Father Louis-Martin Cloutier, who arrived here in 2021, leads a Catholic service that incorporates many elements of Indigenous culture. The result is a beautiful co-mingling of Catholic rites and Indigenous traditions.

The Church of the Immaculate Conception in M’Chigeeng features both Catholic and Indigenous traditions and iconography in its unique services. (Steve Paikin)

For example, when the original church, with its more conventional design, burned down in 1971, it was rebuilt to resemble a round house. Yes, there are paintings on the walls that chronicle the 14 stations of the cross, which depict the various moments of Jesus Christ’s last day on earth. But the paintings were done in the 1980s by the esteemed local Indigenous artist Leland Bell and look dramatically different from the depictions seen in more conventional churches. Yes, there is a large depiction of Christ’s crucifixion, but there are also Indigenous dreamcatchers sprinkled high overhead around the church.

Father Louis-Martin Cloutier began leading services in November 2021. (Steve Paikin)

Where other Catholic services would feature the spreading of incense, this service begins with an Indigenous associate, Debbie Ense, performing a smudging ceremony for every person in the congregation. Ense has been a Diocesan Order of Service for 12 years at this church; it’s a unique designation within the Sault Ste. Marie diocese, which aims to bring Catholic and Indigenous traditions together. It’s proving to be a wonderful way for congregants — Indigenous and non-Indigenous alike — to feel all are embraced.

The stations of the cross are depicted with Indigenous artist Leland Bell's paintings. (Steve Paikin)

During the mass, the Lord’s Prayer is recited in both English and Ojibway. Hymns are sung in English and Ojibway. And when Father Cloutier invites parishioners to reach out to their neighbours and proclaim, “Peace be with you,” it feels like something special when Indigenous and non-Indigenous alike shake hands.

Geraldine Ense-McGregor begins the service on Sundays with a traditional Indigenous smudge ceremony. (Steve Paikin)

“We’re all very proud of our church,” says Father Cloutier. “Everybody is so open and accepting. And we think by showing respect for Indigenous culture and doing things together, we can promote friendship and reconciliation.”

When I asked Ense whether this coming together of traditions has overcome past difficulties, she’s quick to say: “I don’t think we’ve overcome it.” But she adds, “The Anishinabek way of praying and the Catholic way of praying share spirituality and respect and love.”

And it’s on display every Sunday in M’Chigeeng. Wouldn’t it be something to see this approach spread all over Ontario?

Correction: An earlier version of this article stated that the church burned down in 1972. In fact, the fire occurred in 1971. It also stated that M’Chigeeng was unceded territory. That is not the case. TVO Today regrets the errors.